Valle Spluga
Il Perone

e placche di Lirone
Very nice combination of two nice routes, 10 pitches of varied climbing: a classic.
On Lirone slab you find many friction routes too, mostly single pitch.
Approach: from Lirone hairpin (good parking) follow the road (Chiavenna direction) for 200m. and then easily on a track into the wood (10 min.)
Descend: rappels from the top (via Perone) then walking.


400 m








1- Placche di Lirone -
via Laura 120m /6b

2  Il Perone  - via Gutz  230m / 6b


Placche di Cimaganda

3 - Sabato Straordinario - 190m / 6b

The route "Sabato Facoltativo"opened in 1994  by Pilon and Vergari,  has been re-equipped with some variations  and prolonged with 3 more pitches. Now the new route Sabato Straordinario offers very nice climbing  on eccellent granitic rock.

Approach: from the nice parking not far from Rist. Ca'nei Sass in Lirone, follow the main road and transit in front of the restaurant, then go further on following a nice path for about 100m. At a red sign turn on an evident track and cross the stone wall beside the creek. Again on track through boulders (cairns) till the base of the wall. (15 min.)
The thin crack of 3rd pitch (beside) and the last fine slab on Sabato straordinario





This is a place where everybody can find something to do with routes fit for children, but even the parents, or anybody else, can find pretty difficult climbs. Between one route and the next, you can bath into the creek that run nearby or lie down relaxing on nice spot for pic nic. Bouldering is great too and last but not least you can perform on Paletta ridge that offers moderate difficulties on fine rock. More recently Fritz Amann added more multipitche routes with difficulties untill 6b.

From Chiavenna follow Splugapass road for 9 km. At the second hairpin after the evidend bridge near Gallivaggio church, park the car at an  enlargement (left hand). On the other side follow a path, red marked, that easily leads to the choosen sector (5 min.).
1 - Spigolo della Paletta
      130m (6L) 5b max
1b- Paletta (upper part)
      120m (4L) 5c max
2 - Intossicazione alcolica
      95m (3L) 6a max
3 - via Erica
      115m (5L) 5c max
4 - Lo zio cattivo
      110m (5L)  5b max
5 - Nascondino
      50m (2L) 6a max 
6 - Due donne
60m (3L) 4b
7 - Project

      75m (3L) 6b

8 - Waldzwerge  

       90m (4L) 6b

Settore Moulinette:

9 - Curva a sinistra 15m 5a
10 - Brum del capo 15m 5c
11 - Curva a destra 15m 5b
12 - Due ore di sole 25m 5c
13 - Piromania 25m 5b
14 - Il bambino brutto 25m 5b
15 - Caro Diario 25m 5b

Palm Beach 
Settore Bimbi:
16 - Wau Wau 15m 3a
17 - Il fratellino 15m 4a
18 - Kathi leading 15m 3b
19 - Gelato al dentifricio 15m 4b
Settore Genitori:
20 - Nutellone 20m 6c
21 - Patate con patate 20m 6a
22 - Palm beach 20m 5c
23 - Sono Felice 20m 6b
24 - Pool over 20m 6b
PDF printable version
vie by Fritz Amann 2013/2015
Rock Climbing is a potentialy dangerous activity, expecially for children or beginners. Who does it needs knowledge of the of the techniques taking his/her own risks and responsabilties:

Kathi leading

Gelato al dentifricio
Sono Felice

Parete del Castagneto
via Bamboccioni Volanti

One long route only on this wall. Nice demanding climbing on fine rock. Very good protection but some friends needed also.

Placche di Mescolana
    Bella Ciao

It is an excellent route equipped by Guido Lisignoli in the course of the time and finally climbed with Giovanna Mazza on October 15th 2021. Four bolts, on the 3rd pitch are not climbed free yet, probably possible to stronger climbers. (6b+ obl.)

P.s. the 3rd pitch has been climbed all free by Simone Manzi on spring 2023 (diff. 7b). 

Approach: park the car at the hearpin before the first tunnel along Splugapass road (by an old street leading to an abandoned cave)  and walk to Biscione and Mescolana crags. From the latter cross orizontally 100 meters to the start. (15 min.)

Sotto: Bella Ciao, L7 6b

The line is unusual, logic, with an orizontal traversing more than 50 meters long, not difficult, reaching a section of the wall turning to south side. The route could become a classic due to the good rock quality and fine climbing. The 6th pitch (Superplacca)  and the ones on the Headwall  are wonderful. The top is beautiful too and perfect for a good resting.
From there you can choose either to rappel or walking along an unexpected path leading back to Cimaganda.

Right hand side: Superplacca.
Below: first pitch from start and the brilliant 8th pitch.


(with no end) is an extention of Paletta ridge and the two routes can be combined. Doing this you obtain a route 22 pitches long. Climbing is fine on slabs, cracks, vertical parts and rock is always excellent especially on the upper part. Difficulties is constantly around grade 5, maximum 5c.
We recommend to descent walking through a path leading to Cimaganda and its marvellous boulders. The result is a full day on rocks. Could be a good training for long routes and, last but not least, approach takes 3 minutes only!